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新时代古典主义,Prada 2020 秋冬男装秀场回顾
比例、对立、拼接… 秀场空间与服装设计方面都做到了极致。
在连续追求了几季的未来科幻元素之后,Miuccia Prada 在新一季米兰男装周的舞台上回归古典主义。本季,Miuccia 邀请到建筑师 Rem Koolhaas 为其设计打造了超现实的秀场空间。形而上学的绘画与建筑使得整个看似平面的空间呈现出了极强的立体感,秀场的凹陷视角会让观众对模特产生一种貌似疏远又在窥视的感觉,这像是对科技社会中人与人关系的隐喻。而在抽象的广场中央则竖立着一座硬纸板制成的骑马像雕塑,这也与 Miuccia 本季想要强调的古罗马英雄主义息息相关。
在由淡紫色、红色、绿色、蓝色拼接形成的视觉交错感之下,Prada 呈现了一个「极端」的男装系列。比例、对立、以及过去与未来的混合被 Miuccia 玩转到了极致。剪裁精准的西装外套、利落干净的廓形大衣、修身版型的无袖背心,配合彩色几何印花的针织衫、恰到好处的颜色跳跃,以及运动与传统着装的结合—— 现代感、文艺感、实穿性在 Miuccia 的手下得到了完美融合。如何诠释新时代摩登男性,Prada 深谙其道。